DIY: How to Add Patina to a Chandelier

A few months ago, I found this semi mangled chandelier on the side of the road next to the garbage. Talk about a curb side treasure! So, I did this manic U-turn, pulled into an awkward driveway and loaded it up. It also comes with those gold lampshades, but we most likely won't use them for now. What is your opinion, shades or no shades? Living in a rental, we can't put this up, besides, it is too big for our place with such low ceilings.

Our Downtown Studio salon is switching the massage and Jacuzzi room, with our large party/lounge area, and I knew this chandelier would be perfect for lighting since it is pretty dark. Pics of our gorgeous set up here! We spray painted the "candlesticks"  black and got some of the vintage candle flame looking light bulbs. I used a patina-like sea foam green color and dry brushed it on for an aged look, and in some parts, did more of a watercolor wash. I am probably going to add a second patina color and then do a little bit of sanding on the "patina" to really age it. We usually don't like the bright gold, but it works in here and really shines up the rustic glam feel. And of course, I want to add strands of drippy prisms from the bottom. It will be gorgeous and I will most definitely include photos of the finished project!

It's not really work when you love what you are doing!

 

Finished Product! At Downtown Studio Salon's massage and spa room.

 

Adding Color With Paint

I have whined about the color palatte of my home in the past, but now I am doing something about it. With paint. Now, if you are wanting to *try* a new color, but don't have the budget to redecorate or don't want to sew new throw pillow covers, paint a couple of pieces to see how it looks. If you hate it, then paint over it. Go to Goodwill and find some cheap knick knack to experiment with. Shop your house for a mirror frame, picture frame, or some other doodley whop. Today, I am doing my Friend's peephole frame, and a pretty vintage brass candlestick.

Also, I have joined Life in Grace's linky party for painted wood projects. You absolutely MUST see her kitchen. Oh my goodness.



Truly, this is how it goes in my home.

I find a bottle of paint I like, I pull it out with a paint brush and a piece of sandpaper. Then, I quite literally wander around the house pulling stuff out of hiding, from shelves, walls...

Then, I dust it off, sand it a little and start to paint.

But, Lisa, shouldn't you prime? *Blink blink* Probably. Considering that I wil most likely repaint them the next time I want to change color, I really don't bother with that.



But Lisa, shouldn't you use paint designed for metal finishes? *Blink blink* Probably. But I really don't do anything except dust them. If you will use pieces for their actual usage, then by all means, sand better, prime, use the right paint, seal with a sealer, blah blah blah... but I really don't mind if the paint chips. Actually, I enjoy it. (HERE is a good post on painting metal)

Enough talking. Start painting. This is a technique that I use and have invented in my own mind, however, I am sure many many others use it too, but I gave it a name, in all caps. I call it REVERSE DISTRESSING. This is great for when you have an item where you love the color, but it is too bright, so you want to tone it down. (like white washing, but without the water).

Usually, to correctly distress, you paint the underneath color FIRST, the top color next and then sand through so the underneath color pops up through the layer of paint. If you like doing this, you will like this tip. To protect your underneath layer from sanding (so you don't sand too hard to the wood in certain areas) rub a candle on those edges. When you sand over the candle wax, it will reveal the paint you wish to expose instead of going to deep into the wood.

BUT. Forget the rules of distress painting. I switched it up. I paint everything the main top color FIRST. I usually do ivory. Or black. But this year ivory. I have been using Apple Barrel 20405 Antique White acrylic paint and we are getting married soon b/c I love it that much. This technique I will reveal works perfectly for pieces that you can't sand down to expose the underneath layer. Like my brass candlestick. The blue paint I am using is FolkArt 713 Coastal Blue acrylic paint.

SO. Once your piece is ready to paint (cleaned/sanded/primed), paint it your main color first. Now, take your accent color and paint just the pieces you want to highlight with a subtle burst of color, and let it dry, like so:



Now, it is time to DRY BRUSH. This is not my invention. But it works like a charm. You take a mangly, feathery, stragely haired brush for this. A blunt, well kept brush doesn't feather as well. Dip your brush in your main color paint (so ivory in my case), BLOT THE PAINT OFF THE BRUSH and very lightly blend in those bright strips of color until they look like they are being lightly exposed underneath.



You notice I only painted those stripes blue, but afterwards I dry brushed a mix of blue/ivory on other parts of the candlestick holder for a nice subtle finish. On the frame, I dry brushed the ivory on and focused on the edges of the wood. When distressing with paint, it is the same idea as sanding distressing. Focus on highlights, edges and raised surfaces, the areas that are most likely to be scratched and dinged over time.

ONE LAYER OF BLENDING:



FINAL BLENDING (many layers):




I just keep on dry brushing until I am happy. I love how this technique works every time. It leaves a nice texture as well. On my candle stick, I did not sand at all, but on my peep hole Friends frame, I did sand just a tad to show some wood.

BEFORE SANDING:



AFTER SANDING:




It is easy and simple. Once you are done, embellish the pieces. I added lace and a rhinestone brooch to my candlestick, now available for purchase HERE! It would make a lovely vase (for silk or milinery flowers of course). Now, go find something to paint and introduce a new color to your room!

Creating Patina

My Jeweled Ambrosia earrings.

I LOVE me a good patina. I was standing outside my mil's home, waiting for her to answer the door, and I studied her old metal windchime and the natural patina on the lighthouse charm. It was blue and green and a nice river of pale yellow where the rain drips down the side. I thought, this has been sitting here for about 5 years now, how do I get that lovely patina?!


Bangle by Tider Design Gold and black patina with gorgeous etching is lovely adding to the artistic development of the piece.

Well, there is Jax Patina, a chemical you use to paint it on layer by layer that looks gorgeous! You can also patina copper with a torch, and there is also the ammonia method, enameling and eggs, Silver Black or Liver of Sulfur for oxidizing sterling silver (this discussion is reserved for another time).

Or, you can of course, let your metal pieces sit outside for 5 years...



Stacked Rings by Painted Metal

But, then there is this method, shared by the wonderful Vintage Bead Shop, the authority on vintage jewelery and supplies (go visit her shop and get some lovely goodies and kits!) She shares her absolutely wonderful method of creating colorful and artistic patinas. Everything in her photo she has done by hand. Remeber, I focus on jewelry here because well, I LOVE jewelry, but really, this would be great to use on a pair of old candlesticks (like I did HERE), drawer pulls, frames, pretty much anything metal that could use an update.


"CREATING COLOR ON OXIDIZED BRASS COMPONENTS

Materials Needed:
Sponge
Gloves
Paper Plate
Xtra Fine Steel Wool (for buffing, if desired)
Any color paint that is suitable for metal. I like a satin finish paint but you can also use semi-gloss or gloss. If using spray paint, just spray a little into the paper plate so you can dab it on with the sponge. Just a little goes a long way.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1) Cut off a small piece of sponge and wet it with water. Squeeze out any excess water so the sponge is just damp.

2) Dip the sponge in your paint and blot on the paper plate to remove excess paint from the sponge. When it makes a "blotted/sponge" pattern on the paper plate, you know you have the right amount paint on your sponge. You don't want to much paint on your sponge :)

4) Selectively dab/paint your piece as desired. You can coat the enitre piece or just dab it here or there....your choice. You can even use more than one color for a truly unique and colorful effect (see hearts illustrated in first photo).

5) Allow paint to semi-dry (about 15 minutes), then (if desired) just buff with xfine steel wool to expose the desired brass highlights. Note: On the dragonflies, I paint a thin coat then wipe off the wing edges to expose the dark oxidized patina underneath while the paint is still wet :)

If using for jewelry, you can either brush or spray with a clear satin polyurenthane to provide a nice smooth, hypo-allergenic finish. I like Ace Hardware brand "Great Finishes". It is available in a small can for brush on or in a spray can if you prefer to spray your pieces. "

For MORE excellent tips, tricks and methods on creating patinas, see the Yours Truli post HERE!!!


Amie King Custom Charm Necklace

Now, on a totally different note, I was selected to do an alchemy request for the Neverending Story Childlike Empress' Headpiece, for a Halloween costume. I know it isn't EXACT... but pretty darn close given the materials I could find!




And now, I must be off, as I hear laughter, squeals, banging and yogurty sounding splashes resounding in the kitchen. Oiy.



(10 mins later) Well, I was wrong. It was a brand new bucket of butter. Yay. Why am I here you ask, and not cleaning up the mess? Well, I am composing myself so I can deal with the situation in a calm manner! (Trust me, it is a lot worse than in the photo.)